Dharamsala (Larke Phedi): the night before the Larkya La
Written by our trekking team
Photo: Remote Nepal Treks, 1 Apr 2023.
The short version
Dharamsala, also called Larke Phedi, is a cluster of basic lodges at 4,460m right below the Larkya La, and it's your highest night on the Manaslu Circuit. Day 10 gets you there from Samdo: 600m of gain over about 7km, in 3 to 4 hours. You arrive early, rest, eat an early dinner, lay out your layers and sleep, because the pass day starts by headlamp. Staging here means the Larkya La is only 646m above you when you set off.
What Dharamsala is
Dharamsala, also called Larke Phedi, is a handful of basic lodges right under the Larkya La at 4,460m. There's no village around them. They're there so trekkers can sleep close to the pass.
It's the highest night on our Manaslu Circuit, and the most basic. You still get a bed and a hot meal, the same as every other night on the trek.
Day 10: Samdo to Dharamsala
| Day 10 | |
|---|---|
| From | Samdo, 3,860m |
| To | Dharamsala, 4,460m |
| Gain | ▲ 600m |
| Distance | ~7km |
| Time | 3–4 hrs |
| Night | Basic lodge |
Samdo is the last real village before the pass. From there the trail climbs steadily up the valley toward the Larkya La. It's one of the shortest walking days on the circuit, so you arrive with most of the afternoon left and plenty in reserve.
On our trip in 2023 we woke at Samdo on 1 April to fresh snow, and the whole valley up to Dharamsala was white. It didn't change the plan. We walked up as scheduled, and gaiters kept the snow out of our boots.
Photo: Remote Nepal Treks, 1 Apr 2023.
Why sleep this high
Staging at Dharamsala makes the next day shorter. The Larkya La crossing is already the longest day of the trek, about 26km and 8 to 9 hours to Bimtang. Starting from 4,460m means the climb to the 5,106m pass is 646m, and you can be on top before the afternoon wind picks up.
You can sleep this high because the days before it climbed in small steps: two nights at Samagaon (3,530m) with the acclimatization day, a 330m day to Samdo, then this 600m day. Our post on the Samagaon rest day explains how that sets you up.
How to spend the afternoon
- Rest. Sit in the sun if there is any. This isn't the afternoon for a side hike.
- Drink. Tea, hot water, garlic soup. Keep your bottle topped up and use your purification tablets or filter.
- Eat well at dinner. Dinner is early. Eat even if you're not very hungry. Dal bhat with refills is fuel for tomorrow.
- Lay out your kit. Layers for a cold pre-dawn start, a warm hat, glacier-rated sunglasses, sunscreen, snacks, water and your headlamp with spare batteries, all where you can find them in the dark.
- Go to bed early. The crossing starts well before sunrise.
The check-in with your guide
Your guide has been checking and logging your altitude at every stop above 3,000m since Lho, and Dharamsala is the last check before the pass. They carry a pulse oximeter and a first aid kit, and they'll ask how you're feeling.
Once you start the Larkya La crossing there's no easy way to turn back halfway, so this is the check to take seriously. If something feels off, say so now. A headache mentioned at Dharamsala is easy to talk through. Our post on altitude sickness on Manaslu covers the signs your guide watches for. This is general guidance, not medical advice.
The night itself
Nights at 4,460m are cold, and the lodge does less of the warming up than the ones lower down. Your own sleeping bag, rated to at least -15°C, does most of the work. A down jacket for high-altitude nights and fleece or thermal trousers help too. Both are on our Manaslu packing list.
It's common to sleep lightly at this height. Resting in a warm bag still counts.
Leaving in the dark
You set out by headlamp. The climb is steady and none of it is technical: no rope work, no crampons on the standard route. From the top you look across to Himlung, Cheo and Annapurna II, and then it's the long descent to Bimtang. The whole day is in crossing the Larkya La.
On our combined Manaslu and Tsum trek, Dharamsala is Day 16 and the pass is Day 17. The night is the same.
Every day of the route is on our Manaslu itinerary, and the Manaslu Circuit Trek guide covers the rest of the trip.
Frequently asked
How high is Dharamsala on the Manaslu Circuit?
4,460m. It's the highest night on our Manaslu itinerary, the night before the 5,106m Larkya La.
Is Dharamsala the same as Larke Phedi?
Yes. Both names are used for the basic lodges right below the Larkya La.
How long is the walk from Samdo to Dharamsala?
About 7km and 3 to 4 hours, gaining 600m from Samdo (3,860m).
What are the lodges at Dharamsala like?
Basic. You get a bed and a hot meal, but it's the simplest night on the trek, so bring a sleeping bag rated to at least -15°C.
Why not cross the Larkya La from Samdo?
Staging at Dharamsala cuts 600m off the pass day. From there the pass is 646m above you, which keeps an already long 8 to 9 hour day manageable.