Chumling, Chhokangparo and Nile: the villages of the Tsum Valley
Written by our trekking team
Photo: Remote Nepal Treks.
The short version
The Tsum Valley Trek sleeps in three villages: Chumling (2,386m), the first village of Lower Tsum, Chhokangparo (3,010m), the largest village in Upper Tsum, and Nile (3,361m), near the top of the valley. On the way you pass Rachen Gompa, a nunnery near Chhokangparo, and walk through Lamagaon and Chhule. These are Tibetan-culture villages where Buddhist life still shapes the day, with mani walls, chortens and gompas along the trail. You stay in each twice, going up and coming back.
Where the villages are
Tsum is a side valley of the upper Budhi Gandaki, running north of Manaslu toward the Tibet border. The valley is described in two parts, Lower Tsum and Upper Tsum, and the villages get higher and more open as you go.
| Village | Altitude | Part of Tsum | Nights | Days |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chumling | 2,386m | Lower Tsum | 2 | 5 and 9 |
| Chhokangparo | 3,010m | Upper Tsum | 2 | 6 and 8 |
| Nile | 3,361m | Upper Tsum | 1 | 7 |
Below them is Lokpa (2,240m), the gateway village where you sleep on Days 4 and 10. Above them is Mu Gompa at about 3,700m, which you visit on a day walk from Nile.
Chumling: the first Tsum village
Day 5 is a shorter day of 4 to 5 hours from Lokpa. You cross suspension bridges and climb steadily into Lower Tsum, and Chumling is the first village you reach. You arrive with time to spare, and the afternoon is for exploring its mani walls, chortens and gompa.
It's a good first night in the valley. After the gorge days, Chumling is where Tsum starts to feel like its own place.
Chhokangparo: the largest village in Upper Tsum
Day 6 climbs 624m through Tibetan-style villages and barley fields to Chhokangparo, at 3,010m. It's the biggest village up here. On a clear day you look across to Ganesh Himal and Sringi Himal.
You sleep at Chhokangparo twice: on Day 6 going up, and on Day 8 after the walk to Mu Gompa, when you come back down to sleep lower. The moment above Chhokangparo when the upper valley suddenly opens up ahead of you is one of the things people take home from this trek.
Photo: Remote Nepal Treks.
Rachen Gompa, Lamagaon and Chhule
On Day 7 you walk on up the valley from Chhokangparo past Rachen Gompa, a nunnery close to the village. Then the trail goes through Lamagaon and Chhule. Between the villages, mani walls line the path, and above the monasteries there are prayer flags.
It's a 5 to 6 hour day with 351m of gain, so there's no hurry. Stop where you like.
Nile: the top of the valley
Nile, at 3,361m, is your highest night in Tsum. The valley is wide open here. From Nile you walk up to Mu Gompa on Day 8 and come back down past it to Chhokangparo, which we cover in our Mu Gompa post.
Life in the villages
Tibetan Buddhist life still shapes the day in Chumling, Chhokangparo, Lamagaon and Nile, much as it always has. The trail itself is part of it. Mani walls, chortens and gompas line it between the villages.
A few things help you fit in:
- Walk around mani walls and chortens with them on your right.
- Ask before you photograph people, and inside gompas.
- Dress modestly when you visit a gompa or nunnery.
- Your guide is happy to explain what you're looking at. Ask.
Staying in the teahouses
Every night in Tsum is a teahouse. Rooms are simple twin-share with shared bathrooms, and they get a little more basic higher up the valley. Meals are cooked fresh at each lodge: dal bhat with refills, noodle soups, momos, porridge and Tibetan bread, with plenty of tea. You get a bed and a hot meal every night, and no camping gear is needed.
Tsum villages and Manaslu villages
If you're also thinking about the Manaslu Circuit, its Nubri villages, Namrung, Lho, Samagaon and Samdo, have the same Tibetan influence, with kani gates, prayer wheels and long mani walls, plus big views of Manaslu. We write about a rest day there in Samagaon. Our 21-day combined trek visits both sets of villages.
For the whole route, see the Tsum Valley Trek guide or the day-by-day Tsum Valley itinerary.
Frequently asked
Which villages do you stay in on the Tsum Valley Trek?
Inside Tsum, Chumling (2,386m), Chhokangparo (3,010m) and Nile (3,361m). You also stay at Lokpa (2,240m), the gateway village, and at Jagat and Machha Khola on the shared trail.
What is the largest village in the Tsum Valley?
Chhokangparo, at 3,010m in Upper Tsum. You sleep there twice on our itinerary.
What is Rachen Gompa?
A nunnery close to Chhokangparo. You pass it on Day 7 on the way up to Nile.
Are there teahouses in the Tsum villages?
Yes. Every night of the Tsum Valley Trek is in a teahouse, with simple twin rooms and shared bathrooms.
Can you see mountains from the Tsum villages?
Yes. From Chhokangparo on a clear day you can see Ganesh Himal and Sringi Himal.