The Budhi Gandaki gorge: Manaslu from Machha Khola to Deng
Written by our trekking team
Photo: Remote Nepal Treks, 27 Mar 2023.
The short version
The Manaslu Circuit starts in a river gorge, low and warm. Days 3 and 4 follow the Budhi Gandaki from Machha Khola (869m) to Jagat (1,340m) and on to Deng (1,860m), about 42km over two days of 6 to 7 hours each. You pass the hot springs at Tatopani, get your Restricted Area Permit logged at Jagat, and walk a trail cut into the cliff above the river. There's no altitude to think about yet.
The gorge days at a glance
| Day | Route | Ends at | Distance | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2 | Drive Kathmandu to Machha Khola | 869m | — | 8 to 9 hrs |
| 3 | Machha Khola → Jagat, via Khorlabesi and Tatopani | 1,340m | ~22km | 6 to 7 hrs |
| 4 | Jagat → Deng, via Philim | 1,860m | ~20km | 6 to 7 hrs |
| 5 | Deng → Namrung, out of the gorge | 2,630m | ~19km | 5 to 6 hrs |
Days 3 and 4 gain under 1,000m between them. They're long days, but the hard part of the trek is a week away. The full ten walking days are in our post on Manaslu distances and walking hours.
Day 3: Machha Khola to Jagat
You arrive at Machha Khola the evening before, at the end of the drive from Kathmandu, and the river is right there.
When we walked out in March 2023, the first stretch was a dirt road running up the Budhi Gandaki above the village. After that it's Khorlabesi and then Tatopani, where the natural hot springs are a good excuse for a long break before the last climb into Jagat.
Jagat is where the restricted area starts in practice. It's the first permit checkpoint, and officials log your RAP and MCAP there. Your guide carries the paperwork and deals with it. We file all three Manaslu permits before you land, and our post on the Manaslu restricted area explains why they exist.
Day 4: Jagat to Deng
This is the day the gorge gets serious. Past Philim the valley narrows and steepens, and the trail is cut into the cliff above the river.
Photo: Remote Nepal Treks, 26 Mar 2023.
We shared it with porters carrying doko baskets, the big woven baskets carried on a headstrap. Looking back, the valley below Jagat ran up to a snow peak at its head.
There's a short stretch of bamboo forest, and the plants and the air start to change quickly, a first sign of the alpine country further up. Near Deng in late March the rhododendron was out on the valley walls.
What the gorge is like to walk
It's warm. Machha Khola is the lowest night of the trek, and these are the days for a T-shirt and sun hat. Your down jacket stays in the duffel.
It's up and down. The trail follows the river, but it doesn't stay level with it. Expect climbs and drops all day, which is why 20km takes 6 to 7 hours.
It's a working trail. Porters and villagers use it every day, because for the villages up the valley it's the road.
It's quiet with trekkers. Compare it with the trail up to Namche on the Everest side, and the difference is plain. The restricted-area permit keeps the numbers down, even in season.
Leaving the gorge
Day 5 is the biggest climb of the lower trek, 770m from Deng to Namrung. Above Deng the gorge drops away under the trail, and then the houses change: stone walls, prayer flags and prayer wheels, the start of the Tibetan villages of the Nubri valley. Namrung checks your MCAP, and on a clear afternoon it's where you get your first real mountain views.
Our guide to every stop from Machha Khola to Dharapani follows it the rest of the way, and the complete Manaslu Circuit guide covers permits, cost and planning.
Frequently asked
Where does the Manaslu Circuit start?
At Machha Khola (869m) on the Budhi Gandaki, after an 8 to 9 hour drive from Kathmandu. The first walking day, Day 3, goes up the river to Jagat.
How long are the gorge days?
Day 3, Machha Khola to Jagat, is about 22km in 6 to 7 hours. Day 4, Jagat to Deng, is about 20km in 6 to 7 hours.
Are there hot springs on the Manaslu Circuit?
Yes, at Tatopani on Day 3, between Khorlabesi and Jagat. It's a good place for a break before the last climb into Jagat.
Where is the first permit checkpoint?
Jagat (1,340m), on Day 3. Officials log your RAP and MCAP there, and your guide handles the paperwork.
Is altitude a concern in the Budhi Gandaki gorge?
No. Machha Khola is 869m and Deng is 1,860m, so the gorge days stay low. You don't sleep above 3,000m until Lho on Day 6.